Cross Canada Tour
Day 29 - July 6th - Nipigon to Terrace Bay
109 Kms
Well, there were a few hills, and they were intensified by more of the strong headwinds that I encountered all day.  The hills today, were steep grades too,but much, much shorter than the mountain passes of BC. Although after climbing six short grades, it adds up to the same I guess? I felt cheated out of the downhills though, because of the headwind there was no real "free ride." I'm really hoping for better winds tomorrow, as I'd like to cover more distance with less effort! I find that the constant battering of headwinds is very frustrating, but I guess that I have to take what I get.
It rained quite heavily during the night, so I was glad of the motel room in Nipigon. Fortunately though, it didn't rain during today's ride, but I just had a sprinkle here at the campsite. I'm camped at a campground that is next to Aguasabon Falls, about 1 Km west of the town of Terrace Bay. Quite impressive, the falls that is. I expected some small trickle, but there's mist in the air from the huge amount of water surging over the edge of a steep gorge. Quite a drop too, probably 150 ft. or more!
Much better scenery today, I only saw one swamp! But seriously, I had some great views over Lake Superior, too bad it wasn't sunny though, as I feel that my photos will probably look dismal. It was cloudy for the most of the day with cool temperatures - only around 16 degrees - it's supposed to get warmer tomorrow, hopefully. The road was much better too, I had a decent shoulder to ride on and the truck traffic seems to have declined a little. That's either because it's Saturday, or a lot of the truck traffic has headed northeast on Highway 11, from Nipigon towards Hearst etc. I'm on 17, the Lake Superior circle route. However, I think that I'll get more traffic again after the Soo (Sault Ste. Marie). Still more of the scenic hilly route to ride tomorrow. It's funny how that works, isn't it? If it's scenic, it's usually hilly!
Wow, it's four weeks since I left Sidney, BC, it's hard to believe! Time flies when you're having fun! What's good? - The riding. What's bad? - The bugs, they spoil the camping part of the day. I know why most of the road crew and other outside workers here wear long sleeves and long pants - even in the hottest weather - the bugs! If you're covered up, there's less exposed skin for the little buggers to find. When I arrive at a campsite though, I'm usually only minimally covered - besides being hot and sweaty. So by the time I shower and change, I've usually been bitten a dozen times. I hate to get all covered up in nice weather; I guess that's why I say that the bugs spoil the outdoor experience. It's kind of difficult to even enjoy a roadside lunch somewhere too, as the little unwelcome guests are everywhere!
By the way, I met three other cyclists out from Vancouver, BC, later yesterday. They were part of a larger group (up ahead somewhere?) and were hitching rides when they could and cycling at other times. They, two guys and a girl, were kind of hippy-ish and said that they only rode when they felt like it. When I saw them they had been trying to hitch for four hours (they could have ridden a long way in four hours!). I guess it takes a certain type of person/vehicle to stop and pick up three people, three bikes together with all their camping and riding gear. They did say that sometimes semi-trailer trucks stop and pick them up - well I guess they'd have room - probably pass on the smelly livestock haulers though!
The Tour de France starts today, I'll have to check the budget and perhaps grab some more motels so that I can watch some of the action on Outdoor Life Network.
Day 30 - July 7th - Terrace Bay to White River
176 Kms
I started with no wind, then headwind, then tailwind; a miscellaneous assortment for the day! The day also started out cool, but then, after about 11:00 a.m., the sun came out with a vengeance. The hills between Terrace Bay and Marathon were a real roller coaster of steep grades, but once again, not too challenging. I arrived in Marathon quite early, so I had my second breakfast there and decided to push on to White River. I suppose that I had the "scenic" hills in the morning and the "un-scenic" hills in the afternoon, as there were still some brutes to climb on the way to White River, but the grades decreased considerably as I rode further towards White River.
I had some good vistas today as I passed through an area where there are actually ski hills in winter, complete with chair lifts etc. I also had good views of the CPR, as I believe lots of this route is what was originally built as the transcontinental route. I could see the big cuts where the the trains snake around the shores of Lake Superior and the other huge cuts that had to be made through the rock of the Canadian Shield just to keep the track going through this wilderness. I also passed a whole long train who's cars were all living quarters for the crews who work on the tracks - kind of a bunk house on wheels!
Then I rode through a huge area that had been decimated by a forest fire - thousands of acres - it was amazing how many trees were destroyed and now sit there as blackened sticks, but the new growth has already begun; it doesn't take mother nature long to start the restoration process. Interesting day, as I had also passed a huge mining complex west of White River. Some kind of ore mining, I didn't see any explanation as to what was going on there though.
I caught up to some of my hitch-hiking/cycling friends from yesterday. And I have to take back my (somewhat vilified) first impressions of them! I caught up to one of the group, Aimee, on the road. I rode and chatted with her trying to give her some encouragement up one of the hills - she seemed to be having a hard time of it today. She told me that the rest of the group were up ahead which I discovered after I left her and started passing them. They really are very nice young people and most of them were cycling today with just a couple in a support van somewhere I was told. There were about 9 of them cycling and I managed to chat with most of them.
After that brief social respite, I took off, and on arriving in White River, discovered that there is no campground here. But the young ladies at the tourist information building said that I could camp on the grass here for the night, so that's where I am. The other riders also showed up here later and wanted to see the "motor" on my bike! - Yeah, right! They were going to camp here with me, but later elected to find a spot at a nearby lake. I was already set up and decided that I was OK where I was - You know, a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush, kind of thing. They hadn't ridden 176 Kms either, so they still had some oomph left to go scavenging for a campsite. I learned a little more about them and their mission - they're all (11 of them - used to be 14) riding to raise awareness of sustainable environmental solutions and their expedition was named "Cycling for Sustainability." More information at: http://www.cycle.wild.net.au The group is made up of young people from Canada, USA, Australia and some other places that I can't recollect.
I also keep coming across a young hitch-hiker fellow; I've passed him four or five times now, and say a flying hello to him. Well, he showed up here in White River too! His name's Bobby and he's just travelling the country for the summer, hitchhiking and camping wherever.
Strange happenings today... I was flagged down by a motorist, on the road between Marathon and here. The guy pulls in front of me, stops, jumps out of his car and indicated that he wanted me to stop. Which I did as he walked towards to me. Being in such an isolated area, I was a little anxious as I watched him and tried to think if I'd pissed anybody off in the previous town that I had visited! Anyhow, he reaches me, "Is this the road to Toronto" he says! I couldn't believe it! So I said, "Buddy, this is the only road to Toronto - for now." I then had to explain where he should go after the Soo. I guess he's not a map reader - or purchaser! Kind of disconcerting at the time - but it just goes to show that you do meet all kinds of people!
White River's claim to fame - home of Winnie the Pooh, of course - what you didn't know that?
Day 31 - July 8th - White River to Agawa Bay Campsite, Lake Superior Provincial Park
186 Kms
A long ride today, but I've got a mindset for turning that corner and heading east from the Soo!
I had a lot more of the scenic hills after leaving Wawa, where I stopped to eat. There wasn't a truck stop or restaurant for just about the whole way from White River to Wawa; I was starving by the time I arrived there. On that stretch of road I met up with Randal, who's from Saskatoon and riding a recumbent. He started his ride in Victoria and is heading for St. John's, NF. We rode together for quite a while and he seemed quite speedy. I ribbed him that he needed more weight on his bike to slow him down and he replied with a, "no thanks." He got rid of all his camping and cooking gear after the first climb up Allison Pass in BC. His wife was following him at that time, so he gave her all that stuff to take home. He's strictly motel and restaurant now, so his cargo just amounts to some clothing, riding gear and spares. Nice fellow though, we had the famous second breakfast together and chatted for a while. He wanted to ride further than Wawa today, but was limited by motel location. There are motels in Wawa, but the next ones are in Montreal River - 115 Kms further south. 85 Kms of that 115 Kms is through the Lake Superior Provincial Park. And besides two campsites, there are no other accommodations. As myself, he had also just ridden the 90 Kms from White River, and didn't want to chance not making Montreal River. So he was a bit envious that I had camping gear and could continue, because he's about as fed up with Northern Ontario as I am.
It was raining this morning in White River, so I packed up my stuff as quick as possible. Luckily, the tourist info centre had a huge awning where I packed my gear and cooked the regulation breakfast (You know! Hot oatmeal with a banana washed down with a nice cup of tea), without getting soaked. The rain continued on and off all day, but not too heavily. They had a huge downpour at the campground where I'm staying tonight, which soaked all the campsites and made a soggy mess. The sites are right on the shores of Lake Superior, with a sandy beach. Too bad the weather wasn't nicer though - kind of a dismal campsite for $21.50, which is what it costs to camp in all Ontario Provincial Parks. RV, tent, doesn't matter - same rip-off price, if you're a tenter! It would have been a nice view of the sunset too, but a heavy humid mist has been left behind after the rains. I guess that I'll go to bed instead!
I saw two live moose this morning and all kinds of dead ones at the sides of the road, stinking the place up. I had a fox follow me for while down the shoulder - now that that was freaky! A lot of the foxes in Ontario are known to have rabies, so one acting strangely like that can be a sign that the animal is infected - needless to say that I high-tailed it outta there! Lucky that I wasn't crawling uphill! Got a photo of the big goose at Wawa.
I didn't expect it to be this far to this southernmost campground in the park, but when I asked the girl ranger/attendant at the northernmost campground, how far it was to Agawa Bay, she looked at me, in my bike gear and helmet, and said, "about forty-five minutes by car." So I told her that meant nothing to me; she gave me a kind of plywood look and said that she didn't have a clue as to the distance. So I guesstimated the distance, and was a little out! Anyway, I'm closer to the Soo, and glad of that, as I'm heartily sick of the roller coaster of "scenic hills." Apart from the rain and constant undulations today, it wasn't too bad a ride though. Winds were variable, but light. The shoulder came and went, usually leaving when I really needed it!
The girl at the southernmost campground asked for my vehicle license number when I registered (I was still in my bike gear and helmet)! So for a bit of fun, I spelled out, "B-I-K-E." She didn't miss a beat and wrote it down! - Some park attendants!
I hope that we don't get more rain tonight, it's starting to feel like BC!
Day 32 - July 9th - Agawa Bay to Sault Ste. Marie
144 Kms
Yeay, finally made it here. Now I feel like I'm getting somewhere. The clock turned 4000 Kms today too.
I'm celebrating with a motel room and a beer, besides my gear is really damp after last night. The mist from the lake and the heat made the campground like a sauna. I tried to read my book in the tent, but my reading glasses kept fogging up - no kidding! Slugs all over the tent fly in the morning - wonderful place!
I met two other cyclists today who had stayed at Agawa Bay the previous night to my stay. They said that the water system and showers were out of order when they were there, but they were still charged the full price! - Welcome to Ontario!
The ride today - yes, there were more scenic hills - actually the hills were less in number, but a little more severe. However, I must say, that for vistas of the the lake and riding close to the shores, today's ride was the best so far. I passed lots of sandy beaches and wonderful views of islands and rock formations jutting out of the lake. As I neared the Soo, I once again started seeing farmland and livestock, something that has been absent for many days of riding.
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The inner city was nothing spectacular, another big city that I'll be glad to get out of - quickly! I checked out the local hostel, which was in an old downtown hotel, but the management wouldn't allow me to have my bike in my room, so I elected for a motel on the east side of town - quick getaway in the morning! Besides, there's a pub on one side of the motel and a home-made pizza parlour on the other - guess what's for dinner?
I guess that there's a lot of history to the city though, as there are some wonderful old heritage buildings downtown. The Soo is a major border crossing to the USA, so there's lots of truck and rail traffic here. However as a cyclist, I tend to want to depart the bigger cities, rather than stay and explore. I find that the traffic and roads (the curb lanes in some of these Ontario towns/cities really make me appreciate my sprung saddle!) are just a pain to negotiate. I really find the smaller towns more interesting and the residents much friendlier than in the cities.
The weather turned to hot again today, my gauge is that it was a three ice-cream day! Not to mention the cold drinks that I scarfed back.
Basil's forgotten all about growing his fur long and getting a bead necklace as we've left our hippy-ish friends way back up the road. The lads that I met today had also bumped into (and ridden with for while) the big group (cycling for sustainability). Perhaps we will all meet up in the Maritimes somewhere?
Day 33 - July 10th - Sault Ste. Marie to Spragge
166 Kms
A great day to ride, the sun was shining, a nice tailwind, and not too hot. The road was pretty good, as was the scenery. Sounds too good to be true? Well, it really was a good ride, only marred by the heavy truck traffic and bad shoulder in places. I also hit some major road works for about 20 Kms just before Spragge - more of a delay than anything, with gravel and grooved pavement to ride on. Once again I'm glad of my Schwalbe Marathon XR tire choice for some of these adverse conditions.
Hopefully tomorrow, I'll be able to get off the Trans Canada onto Highway 6. There will be a lot less truck traffic to contend with then; I'm sure that the ride will be more enjoyable on 6 and then on other secondary roads that I plan to take on my way to Ottawa. In fact, I don't think that I'll have to ride the TC for any long stretches after tomorrow - hopefully!
The ride today was mostly due east on on what is known locally as "The Northshore." It is in fact the north shore of Lake Huron, as I have left Lake Superior back at the Soo. Much more interesting riding, as I am passing through more small towns that are fairly close together - more places to buy ice-cream! Lots of nice farms, riverfront, lakefront and landscapes.
I stopped for that second breaky in Bruce Mines and got chatting with three young people (two guys and a girl) in the restaurant. They were really interested in my trip and I think I got them convinced to try some cycle touring. They had all been to BC and worked as tree planters, so it was good to talk about places that we had all visited. They asked the same questions that many people ask me, and most of them gape in awe when they find out that I started on Vancouver Island just a few short weeks ago. I suppose that to many people, cycling long distances just doesn't seem possible, until they actually meet someone who's doing it. But it makes for a good conversation starter, as people are not shy to drill me with questions. The best one I had yet, was a young lady who said, "but don't you have a car?"
For road snacks today, I was scoffing the remains of last night's pizza. I usually have no trouble in demolishing a medium sized one on my own, but the one I bought last night was in a rectangular shape and also thick, HUGE and delicious! Definitely unlike the any of the pizza franchise offerings, this one had that home-made touch from a genuine Italian pizza parlour. I ate about half of it last night, washed down with a brew and watched the third stage of the Tour de France - life's good ain't it?
There's not much here in Spragge though; basically a campground, a small motel and for some unknown reason, a car dealership? There's not even a store here, but there's a car dealership - only in Ontario eh! Maybe there's more to the village over the hill to east, I guess I'll find out in the morning.
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through more small towns that are fairly close together - more places to buy ice-cream! Lots of nice farms, riverfront, lakefront and landscapes.
