British Columbia's Southern Gulf Islands

It has been said that British Columbia is Canada's crowning Province and that the Gulf Islands are the jewels in the crown. Anyone who has been fortunate enough to visit some of the Gulf Islands, can probably relate to the previous statement. The Gulf Islands really are jewels, and together with the neighbouring San Juan Islands of the the USA, make for some of the best cycle touring venues of the Pacific Northwest.
There are many islands that comprise the the blanket statement of "Southern Gulf Islands," and in 2003 the Federal Government of Canada realised that some of these beautiful and magnificent areas should be preserved for the benefit of future generations, thereby creating, The Gulf Islands National Park Reserve (GINPR). From the National Parks website... "The Gulf Islands National Park Reserve of Canada is comprised of properties on 16 of the Gulf Islands and over 30 islets and reefs throughout the southern Strait of Georgia. Only four of the islands - Saturna, Mayne, North Pender and South Pender - are inhabited and accessible by BC Ferries." One might wonder where the larger neighbouring Saltspring Island and Galiano Island figure in the Park Reserve - they don't! Nevertheless, several of their nearby inlets and islets are part of the protected areas.

Although the roads on most of the Gulf Islands are winding and hilly, they do make for very pleasant and usually quiet cycling. Traffic travelling to and from the ferry terminals can be hectic, but easily avoided by a canny cyclist, especially when first arriving on one of the islands via ferry. Even though cyclists are allowed to alight first, it is very wise to wait and let the motor vehicles go ahead, leaving a much quieter prospect for the ride ahead!
Campsites are available on most of the larger islands - a notable exception is Saturna Island - but even if there is no camping, a myriad of and bed & breakfast establishments await the weary pedaller throughout the islands.
Following is a short narrative with some photos of the islands that I have visited whilst bike touring.

Pender Islands

Pender Island constitutes both South Pender and North Pender; a narrow canal separates the two Penders. South Pender is the least populated of the two. As with all the islands, riding can be hilly with some fairly steep but relatively short, challenging climbs on narrow roads. Camping is available on North Pender at a couple of places... Port Browning Marina; showers, pub, restaurant, pool, store etc. and some cabins for rent. Also camping at Prior Centennial Park (this was a Provincial park, but has been transferred to the GINPR); basic camping, water, no showers, pit toilets, treed sites. As I mentioned above, there are numerous bed & breakfast establishments throughout the island together with a hotel at Poet's Cove (Bedwell Harbour) on South Pender.

I've camped at Port Browning a few times; it is a very scenic waterfront location allowing for a relaxing view over the harbour observing boat traffic coming and going. The only bad part was that boat owners (once they've moored their boats) love to walk their dogs all over the campground - now I can't blame the dogs, but their owners for the most part were very inconsiderate about scooping their dog's poop, in fact most didn't. Hence, wherever a person was to walk there were numerous hazards; a good flashlight was essential if one was to wander the grounds after dark - nothing worse than bringing in something on the bottom of your shoe into the tent! On all occasions I was disappointed that the owners of the facility were not more diligent about creating some poop and scoop initiatives. Otherwise a nice place to camp, very close - 10 minute walk - to a variety of Pender's stores at Driftwood Mall shopping centre.

Camping at Port Browning

Galiano Island

Galiano is one of the outermost of the group and is a long narrow island. As with all the islands, riding can be hilly with some fairly steep but relatively short, challenging climbs on narrow roads. However, long distances do not need to be accomplished so the hills can be tackled at a leisurely pace.
There are two Provincial Park campgrounds on Galiano - at Montague Harbour and Dionisio Point. Dionisio is only accessible by water and is very popular with kayakers. I've camped at Montague and it is in a wonderful location. The campground has treed and open sites and facilities include pit toilets, water but no showers; there is a small pub and restaurant nearby. Lots of shell beach areas make for great walking and beachcombing opportunities. Sunsets from the Gray Peninsula area of the park can be spectacular. Other than camping, many other accommodations are available on the island and vary between cabins, inns, vacation homes and bed & breakfast establishments. Summer time boosts the island's population dramatically with tourists (and part-time residents) possibly outnumbering the permanent residents. Accommodation reservations are highly recommended during these busy periods.
There is only one main road along almost the full length of the island, but some side roads to the east of the island are worth exploring too. Bodega Beach Drive is one that comes to mind - great views over Georgia Strait on a clear day. Cycling the length of the island from Montague Harbour is an easy day ride with little traffic and some good picnic site opportunities - Lover's Leap rock is definitely worth a stop, but take food and water as there are no facilities to speak of north of Montague Harbour.

Views around Montague Harbour

Saltspring Island

Saltspring Island is probably the most famous of the Gulf Islands and by far, the most populated. The hub of the island is the village of Ganges, but a village in name only as it is the commercial centre for the islanders. Tourism abounds on Saltspring with attractions such as summer markets in downtown Ganges every Saturday drawing numerous visitors to sample "Island Life."
In a way, the rural ambiance of the island is losing its flavour somewhat as more and more people travel to and vacation on the island. Nevertheless, it is a fabulous cycle touring destination with many roads and areas to explore. Ruckle Provincial park at Beaver Point is a wonderful oceanside camping venue for tenters, but take supplies as stores are quite a distance away.

Click here to view my Saltspring Page

More Islands information to come...

This page last updated June 29, 2010