Cross Canada Tour

Day 32 - July 9th - Agawa Bay to Sault Ste. Marie
144km

 Yeay, finally made it here. Now I feel like I'm getting somewhere. The clock turned 4000km today too.

 I'm celebrating with a motel room and a beer, besides my gear is really damp after last night. The mist from the lake and the heat made the campground like a sauna. I tried to read my book in the tent, but my reading glasses kept fogging up - no kidding! Slugs all over the tent fly in the morning - wonderful place!

 I met two other cyclists today who had stayed at Agawa Bay the previous night to my stay. They said that the water system and showers were out of order when they were there, but they were still charged the full price! - Welcome to Ontario!

 The ride today - yes, there were more scenic hills - actually the hills were less in number, but a little more severe. However, I must say, that for vistas of the lake and riding close to the shores, today's ride was the best so far. I passed lots of sandy beaches and wonderful views of islands and rock formations jutting out of the lake. As I neared the Soo, I once again started seeing farmland and livestock, something that has been absent for many days of riding.

 The inner city was nothing spectacular, another big city that I'll be glad to get out of - quickly! I checked out the local hostel, which was in an old downtown hotel, but the management wouldn't allow me to have my bike in my room, so I elected for a motel on the east side of town - quick getaway in the morning! Besides, there's a pub on one side of the motel and a home-made pizza parlour on the other - guess what's for dinner?

 I guess that there's a lot of history to the city though, as there are some wonderful old heritage buildings downtown. The Soo is a major border crossing to the USA, so there's lots of truck and rail traffic here. However as a cyclist, I tend to want to depart the bigger cities, rather than stay and explore. I find that the traffic and roads (the curb lanes in some of these Ontario towns/cities really make me appreciate my sprung saddle!) are just a pain to negotiate. I really find the smaller towns more interesting and the residents much friendlier than in the cities.

 The weather turned to hot again today, my gauge is that it was a three ice-cream day! Not to mention the cold drinks that I scarfed back.

 Basil's forgotten all about growing his fur long and getting a bead necklace as we've left our hippy-ish friends way back up the road. The lads that I met today had also bumped into (and ridden with for while) the big group (cycling for sustainability). Perhaps we will all meet up in the Maritimes somewhere?

Day 33 - July 10th - Sault Ste. Marie to Spragge 166km

 A great day to ride, the sun was shining, a nice tailwind, and not too hot. The road was pretty good, as was the scenery. Sounds too good to be true? Well, it really was a good ride, only marred by the heavy truck traffic and bad shoulder in places. I also hit some major road works for about 20km just before Spragge - more of a delay than anything, with gravel and grooved pavement to ride on. Once again I'm glad of my Schwalbe Marathon XR tire choice for some of these adverse conditions.

 Hopefully tomorrow, I'll be able to get off the Trans Canada onto Highway 6. There will be a lot less truck traffic to contend with then; I'm sure that the ride will be more enjoyable on 6 and then on other secondary roads that I plan to take on my way to Ottawa. In fact, I don't think that I'll have to ride the TC for any long stretches after tomorrow - hopefully!

 The ride today was mostly due east on what is known locally as "The Northshore." It is in fact the north shore of Lake Huron, as I have left Lake Superior back at the Soo. Much more interesting riding, as I am passing through more small towns that are fairly close together - more places to buy ice-cream! Lots of nice farms, riverfront, lakefront and landscapes.

 I stopped for that second breaky in Bruce Mines and got chatting with three young people (two guys and a girl) in the restaurant. They were really interested in my trip and I think I got them convinced to try some cycle touring. They had all been to BC and worked as tree planters, so it was good to talk about places that we had all visited. They asked the same questions that many people ask me, and most of them gape in awe when they find out that I started on Vancouver Island just a few short weeks ago. I suppose that to many people, cycling long distances just doesn't seem possible, until they actually meet someone who's doing it. But it makes for a good conversation starter, as people are not shy to drill me with questions. The best one I had yet, was a young lady who said, "but don't you have a car?"

 For road snacks today, I was scoffing the remains of last night's pizza. I usually have no trouble in demolishing a medium sized one on my own, but the one I bought last night was in a rectangular shape and also thick, HUGE and delicious! Definitely unlike the any of the pizza franchise offerings, this one had that home-made touch from a genuine Italian pizza parlour. I ate about half of it last night, washed down with a brew and watched the third stage of the Tour de France - life's good ain't it?

 There's not much here in Spragge though; basically a campground, a small motel and for some unknown reason, a car dealership? There's not even a store here, but there's a car dealership - only in Ontario eh! Maybe there's more to the village over the hill to east, I guess I'll find out in the morning.

Day 34 - July 11th - Spragge to Sheguiandah, Manitoulin Island
138km

 A brisk northeast wind created a strong headwind for me all the way to my exit from the TC. Regardless, it was superb to finally leave that mayhem of truck traffic behind. Early this morning I counted the ratio of transport truck to car traffic, the ratio was 5 trucks to 1 car over the period of an hour - incredible. Hardly surprising though, as it's the only road for truckers to take from the Soo to Sudbury. But it's sad to see a vacant rail track beside the highway where all those goods could be moved by train - much more efficiently and at a lower cost to the environment and road maintenance.

 OK, I'll get off my soapbox now!

 As soon as I started riding on Highway 6, the road became very hilly, but I can handle that much better than the constant drone of those big wheels going past me. I just had the odd truck go by, but otherwise the traffic was very light especially south of Espanola. The scenery is really splendid, many different views of the North Channel as I rode down the peninsula from Espanola. All the way from the TC I spotted an abandoned rail bed running almost parallel with Highway 6. It was a little too rough for me to ride on though. But what a resource that the Ontario government could exploit for outdoor enthusiasts - rail trail in the summer and snowmobile trail in the winter. I've passed many abandoned rail beds in the past few weeks and always wonder why those rights of way are not better utilised?

 I stopped in Espanola and Little Current for a while to poke around a bit and check a few things out, pick up some supplies and buy a new book to read. There was no campground in Little Current, so I ended up about 10km south of there at Sheguiandah. This campground is one of the better ones that I've been to, the people are friendly and the sites are nice and open - minimal bugs so far too! And they have a store with ice cream!

 I met a lady here from Chemainus, BC, who is running a bicycle touring company here on Manitoulin Island. She was full of questions for me and we chatted for quite a while - about two ice-creams worth! I wondered afterwards what she does in the winter when there's six feet of snow on the ground? Snowmobile touring? I never thought to ask!

 I also met yet another cross country cyclist at the park in Spragge last night. This young fellow, Chris, started from Vancouver on May 10th, so he's really taking his time. We compared notes and discovered that we had stayed at a lot of the same places, including the hostels. It was fun to hear another person's conclusions coincide with mine. He was telling me that he's been plagued with broken spokes on his back wheel and also had to replace his tires already. I suggested that he transfer some of his heavier stuff to the front panniers, as the front wheel on a multi-geared bicycle is usually the strongest one. I thought that he might show up here on Manitoulin Island this evening, but he did say that he only likes to ride 80 to 100km a day, so perhaps he stayed in Espanola?

 The weather was hot today, with hotter stuff in the forecast and perhaps rain for Saturday, but to be honest, I haven't had an accurate forecast for a long time - perhaps it's because I'm constantly on the move?

Factoid: Manitoulin Island is the largest fresh water island in the world - How about that?

 The swing bridge was in operation just before I crossed over to the island - very cool to watch. Especially so, as it was opened to let one sailboat through and a whole mess of traffic had to wait for the boat to putter through! A short day is in the cards tomorrow, as I have to catch the ferry to the Bruce Peninsula and will probably just stay in Tobermory for the night. That'll be something different, a ferry ride!

 My new book awaits...

Day 35 - July 12th - Sheguiandah to South Baymouth
55km

 I'm on the ferry and may cycle more today, but thought that this would be a good opportunity to write some stuff!

 This morning I made my breakfast at the campsite in the absence of mozzies, in fact, between last night and this morning, I didn't receive one bite! That's a record since entering Ontario - not to mention Manitoba and Saskatchewan! I had a nice leisurely ride to the ferry terminal and thought that it was much like riding the roads of our Gulf Islands in BC - peaceful, rolling countryside. Needless to say, I enjoyed my short stay on Manitoulin Island.

 The ferry that I'm on is called the Chi-Cheemaun and plies the waters between Lake Huron, proper, and Georgian Bay, to and from South Baymouth and Tobermory. The route is very scenic, especially so when cruising through the Tobermory Islands. Tobermory, with its proliferation of shipwrecks and home of Fathom Five National Marine Park is a favourite spot for divers.

 Today I thought that I'd get caught up on all those burning questions that people ask, want to ask and will ask...

 

Q: What's your average speed on a day to day basis?

A: With fairly neutral winds, approximately 22-23km/hr.
However, with a headwind all day that changes to 12-16km/hr. With a tailwind, possibly 25-29km/hr.

 

Q: How long do you ride?

A: Figure it out from above! I usually try to be done riding by mid-afternoon - not always possible. However, I'd say on average between 6 - 10 hours per day.

 

Q: Does your bum hurt?

A: Only when I don't ride.

 

Q: Why do you use a leather saddle?

A: So that my bum doesn't hurt.

 

Q: What do you cook and eat?

A: Food. Mostly pasta, rice, pasta, rice, pasta, rice!

 

Q: Aren't you scared riding alone?

A: I'm not alone, I have Basil.

 

Q: How much does your equipment weigh?

A: Too bloody much!

 

Q: Are you riding back west too?

A: Are you nuts?

 

Q: How many flats have you had?

A: None, and I don't want none!

 

Q: Are you doing this for fun?

A: No, I'm a masochist.

 

Q: What time do you get up on a morning?

A: 5:30am, unless I know for sure that I have an easy ride ahead of me, then I sleep in until 5:45am.

 

Q: How many mozzie bites have you had?

A: Innumerable!

 

Q: How many mozzie bites will you get?

A: Same answer! - I'm a realist.

 

Q: Do you talk to yourself?

A: Only if there's nobody else there.

 

Q: Do you get lonely?

A: Only when Basil ignores me.

 

Q: What small things please you now?

A: Turning my map over to a new section.

 

Q: What small things do you think will please you?

A: Throwing away my Ontario map!

 

 That's it for now, if I ride much further today, I'll add it on here...

 

 Add 32km - I rode south on Highway 6 to a campground at Miller Lake that I elected to continue to, Tobermory was a zoo and I've been there before on numerous occasions as I used to live close by to this region. I waited for the ferry traffic to subside before riding south, so the road was fairly quiet. Only a gravel shoulder though, but that's the norm on many of Ontario's secondary highways.

Day 36 - July 13th - Miller Lake to Owen Sound
103km

 The campsite last night was OK, but expensive. However, I received no mozzie bites last night, and only two this morning! I'm finding that the further south I travel, expenses increase. I'm in a motel for two days now, as tomorrow will be a rest and visit with family day. My daughter-in-law is driving up from Brampton with my two grandsons for a visit with me. I wanted to get a room at a certain motel, but no joy, so I ended up at another motel that is a little cheaper, but quality-wise cheaper too! To be honest, I've had better $40.00 rooms in the past and this one is twice as much! But beggars can't be choosers, and Basil is happy with the TV.

 The ride south on Highway 6 was uneventful, barring the multitude of dead raccoon bodies - I saw at least 10 - must have been Kamikaze raccoon night! All little scruffy buggers too! (I remember that Manitoba raccoons were like medium sized dogs - don't mess with them suckers!) I had one of them trying to get into my food stash early this morning too, but he/she couldn't penetrate my Kevlar Ursack food bag - it got a few good puncture marks in it though. I must have heard something that woke me up; I peeked out of the tent and saw the raccoon hanging onto the bottom of the bag with his teeth! So I threw some small rocks at it and cleared him off! What with all the dead and live ones, I figure that the raccoons are a real menace here. The campground owners have to collect all the garbage each evening so as not to attract raccoons, or bears, which are also proliferating on the Bruce Peninsula. In addition to the dead raccoons, I ran close by a few more smelly dead skunks and a really flat frog!

 At Ferndale, I turned off Highway 6 towards Lions Head and then rode County road 9 south into Wiarton. This was a really scenic, quiet route, but quite hilly when compared to the highway. There's always a trade-off isn't there?

 Once in Wiarton (home of Wiarton Willie, the weather forecasting groundhog!), I had my second breaky at the Top Notch Cafe (highly recommended, not only for quality but quantity!) then turned off and took all the country roads through to Owen Sound. What a marvelous ride through peaceful countryside - some nostalgia too, as I used to live in this area. Riding the back roads took a little extra time as it was a longer ride than had I taken the main highway, but well worth the extra effort. A little bit of a south west head wind blowing, but I hardly noticed it as I pedalled through some great vistas of farmland and then coasted alongside Georgian Bay. I passed by many beautiful older properties; some that date back to the 1800's as this area was populated quite early due to Owen Sound's status as a major port and rail terminal on shores of the Great Lakes. Some of the roads were great riding, but I recollected how much snow sometimes accumulated on these roads in the winter - hard to believe that I've seen the snow reach the power lines in some of the areas that I rode through today.

 Owen Sound was the destination of my emigration from Britain - way back when, so there was a lot of memories for me today as I pedalled the streets and the infamous 10th Street hill! It is a busy, busy place, and I happened in on their sidewalk sale day, so even busier than usual. I stopped at the tourist information building - the old railway station, where all my goods and chattels from Britain once arrived. From there, I tried to book an inexpensive room at one or two of the local motels and discovered that there was "no room at the (cheaper) inns." Hence I found a motel at an exorbitant price and booked for a couple of days anyway. Tomorrow was to be a rest day and I was going to have a family visit from my daughter in law and two grandsons who were driving up from Brampton to see me. After cleaning up, I managed to brave the sidewalk sale crowds and found a pub with some imported British ale - a great place for a nice quiet pint of John Smith's Bitter - Mmmmm, Good!

 The sun's supposed to be out for the next few days and today it is really beating down and really hot, so I'm glad of the rest day for a break. I've got to find a Laundromat tomorrow and do all that kind of stuff too. But for this evening, I'm just going to relax, with my air conditioning - aah! - and maybe even sleep in tomorrow. Also, the motel has a pool and hot tub, so I'll be taking advantage of those, for sure!

Day 37 - July 14th -Rest Day - Owen Sound
0km

Grandsons fooling around on Granddad's Bike!