New Zealand Tour

Day 19 - Fairlie to Omarama
131km

 Another mainly fine day - I can't believe it! Actually, after I sent my email last night, it was a beautiful evening in Fairlie - even the sun started to peer through the low clouds for a nice sunset. It was also a good deal warmer this morning to extract myself from the nest.

 Fairlie's history is like most small towns here, it started as a sheep station. Nowadays, although the sheep are still big business, a lot of the towns are bases for all types of tourism exploits. Fairlie - low alpine - is the base for people skiing nearby Mt. Dobson. Omarama, where I ended up today, is a centre for para-gliding, heli-skiing, gliding and numerous other ways to get high! I mentioned alpine, and upon leaving Fairlie, I had about 21km of uphill to clear Burke's Pass. Fortunately, most of it was a gentle climb, we won't talk about the last 2km!

 Once at the top I got a spectacular view of the snow-capped Southern Alps of New Zealand on the horizon. In fact, for probably 50km today, I had some fantastic vistas of the mountains and even Mt. Cook was fully visible in the distance (I believe that Mt. Cook was Sir Edmund Hilary's training ground). I stopped for second breaky in Lake Tekapo, where the lake is a very deep blue colour. The village is an alpine tourist venue in the making - chalet and condo construction everywhere - It'll be a packaged tourist trap (like Lake Louise) in no time. Nevertheless, a beautiful spot all the same.

 Lake Tekapo and adjoining Lake Pukaki, are dammed to provide a good portion of the South Island's electricity through hydro generation. There is a canal between the lakes, and it must have been an expensive project to complete. But the kicker is that there is a paved road beside the canal that runs for almost 35km - and it's completely flat except for a 2km downhill to the other lake at the end. Guess which road I took? I didn't hesitate to leave SH8 for the serenity of the canal road. I think that besides being a scenic ride, I only saw about six cars along that stretch - and no buses. Buses are more frequent than big trucks now, as they ply the road to Queenstown. Shortly after reaching Lake Pukaki I had to leave the canal road and rejoin SH8 to ride on to Twizel and Omarama.

 All in all a good days ride with some good scenery and weather. I actually saw seven other cyclists on the canal road - all going the other way - three couples and one single lady. Five were Germans - God, they're everywhere! And the other two were from France.

 I only had one scary moment today - just before Lake Tekapo - when a pilot car passed me with it's orange flasher going - after he went by, I looked in my mirror and there was this truck with a full width (double-wide) house on it's trailer bearing down on me. I stopped, jumped off the bike and literally dragged the bike, into the ditch and ducked down - just in time too! I can't believe that they'd allow something that wide on these narrow roads! Or maybe it's one of insane extreme sports here - like zorbing or the myriad other suicidal hair-brained options to maim yourself that I've seen advertised here in New Zealand.

 Anyhow, that was a lucky break for me - now it's time to eat - fuel up, ya know!

Day 20 - Omarama to Cromwell
116km

 It rained last night, but had stopped by the time I had to pack up this morning. After breakfast, I set out on the 32km climb to Lindis Pass. The sun was trying to clear the clouds, but the rain showers won out. There were only two quick ones though, just enough to soak me while I donned my raingear - kinda like someone throwing a bucket of water on you while you're getting dressed - get the picture?

 The first 20km were a slight uphill grade, but into that damned headwind again. The next 10km were a little steeper, and the last 2km were candidates for the knee-knackerer award. Once over the 965m pass, it was pretty smooth riding until another 2km killer hill just before Tarras, where I stopped for second breaky - that was after 80km with no services, so I guess that it was lunch too!

 The wind really picked up just before Tarras also. But lucky me, finally a ferocious tailwind! Needless to say, the last thirty-odd Klicks into Cromwell were a breeze! I met a lady cyclist going the other way, just after Tarras - she was not amused!

 What enhanced that last section for me, was also riding on relatively flat road alongside the scenic Lake Dunstan. Actually, I had some wonderful scenery all day today - even the stark and barren hillsides of the ride over Lindis Pass had a beauty of their own and I was following the path of the Lindis river, just about all the way from the summit. That's one thing that I've noticed here, yes there are hills everywhere, but they are very diverse in their constitution - some are clay hills, some are grass, some are wooded, some are bare, others are rock hills etc. Today I passed from one to the other. The area that I am in now is Central Otago, and I feel as if I have been dropped into the Okanagan area of BC! The weather after the pass changed considerably - it was scorching hot all afternoon, with a very dry strong wind blowing. Nevertheless, the forecast is for rain for a couple of days in the Queenstown area, which is not far away. This valley area, just like the Okanagan, abounds with vineyards and is a major fruit growing region ("The fruit bowl of the south") - also it was a gold mining area in the late 1800's and early 1900's; apparently, some of the mines are still viable and there is a definite move afoot to restart some of the old mining operations in the near future - tourism???

 Much of Cromwell is a newer town with a partially reconstructed "old" section. The building of the Clyde Dam and the filling of Lake Dunstan required a move of the town centre. Regardless, as in Lake Tekapo, there is lots of construction here too, houses, condos, and with a new shopping centre the town is a very pleasant stopping point. I guess being close to Queenstown is not hurting either! Nice motor camp here too. I got a cabin for tonight - rain expected!

 I'm really looking forward to Queenstown tomorrow - "the undisputed tourist Mecca of New Zealand" - I've booked a cabin there for a couple of days, so it'll be a full day off, rain or shine, to be Mr. Tourist. Basil will be happy with a day off too, he says his arms are sore from hanging on to the saddle! Better than a sore butt, I'd say!

 For your information... There are no pennies in New Zealand, your total bill in the shops, is rounded off to the nearest five cents! Good system, I like it!

Day 21 - Cromwell to Queenstown
64km

 The rain held off all last night only to start this morning at 6:00 a.m. And this was no shower that I could wait out! I set off after breakfast with a moderate rain falling. Heading south west on SH6, all I could see were grey clouds swirling around the hill tops. As I rode into the spectacular Kawarau Gorge, the rain steadily increased to a total downpour. The new rain jacket paid for itself in spades today!

 I planned a short ride today, as I knew that this part of the trip would have some good views. Well I wasn't disappointed with the views, it was a breathtaking gorge for many, many miles. The canyon/gorge walls were deep and very high, something akin to the Fraser Canyon in BC. Absolutely, stunning! Riding alongside a deep canyon, with no safety barrier or shoulder for much of the way was definitely exciting and sometimes heart-stopping, especially when I was being overtaken and had oncoming traffic approaching too! Thank God that there wasn't a crosswind, or I might have been bungy-jumping sans bungy!

 Of course, the rain spoiled many of my opportunities to gaze around, as I had to be that much more careful on the extremely wet roads and be very aware of what was coming up from behind. But the absolute bummer was not being able to take any photos - an underwater camera would have been handy today again! I did manage a couple of quick shots when the rains decreased to only monsoon properties.

 I also passed by the famous bungy-jumping bridge (this was the first place in the world that commercial bungy-jumping was started by entrepreneur A.J. Hackett) just as some fool was leaping. I couldn't even consider getting the camera out, it would have been drowned immediately.

I guess that it was just as well that I did plan a short day, because that rain never did quit. Second breaky was in Frankton, about 7km outside Queenstown. I was like a drowned rat by then, but even a hungry drowned rat has to eat! I stretched out the meal and pot of tea in the nice warm tearoom for as long as I could hoping for a break in the clouds, but the rain just continued. So I set off for the last few kilometres; that's when I hit the road-works - just to put the finishing touches to the day! By the time I arrived in downtown Queenstown, there was even some thunder and lightning happening - what next? I cowered under a store's awning to get my bearings and look around - the place was a total tourist zoo - cars, buses pedestrians all bustling about in the pouring rain!

 After a quick gander at the map, I discovered that I only had about a two minute ride out to motor camp - where, being the smart guy I am, I had pre-booked a cabin a few days ago - remember? Actually the cabin is a room in the main building - more like a motel room - nice bed, my own TV etc. - quite luxurious by motor camp standards! It was sure nice to be able to shower and clean up after that ride. I'm thankful that I've got good raingear now, without that, days like today, would have been impossible. I'm also glad that the blustery weather abated overnight; it would have been very dangerous on that road with any kind of wind adding to the hazardous conditions.

 And that Basil, he wanted the same winds as yesterday, when in fact they would have been crosswinds! He sometimes doesn't check his directions very well - ahem! I also passed by a jet boating venture for the Kawarau river in the canyon, Basil wanted to go, but they didn't have any suits his size!

 After my shower, I put on my raingear again and walked into town to have a boo - now imagine a huge Whistler Village... There is so much going on here it's difficult to get a handle on everything.

 On the shore of Lake Wakitipu, Queenstown is built on the steep hillsides around the lake. Many spectacular and very expensive properties overlook the lake and stupendous scenery that abounds here. But I'll leave the rest for tomorrow, after I've had a full day here to take it all in.

 More rain forecast for tomorrow morning, with some hopeful clearing after that - I hope so, I want to some photos of this place! I might mention that all parts of New Zealand north of here were basking in hot sunshine today! - Typical, eh?

 

Day 22 - Rest Day - Queenstown
0km

 First of all, let me say that my day off was marred somewhat by the fact that the heavy rains of the previous day created a rock slide that had blocked the only direct road to the west coast of the South Island from Queenstown (next option would require an eight hour detour). Tomorrow morning, I was scheduled to bus to Fox Glacier on the coast, and then continue riding from there. Needless to say, the road closure was at the back of my mind all day, together with scrambled thoughts of alternate plans... Ultimately, the road was partially cleared and only minor delays are expected.

 Otherwise, the day off was fine - a welcome rest from pedalling. The weather cooperated somewhat too, with no rain, mostly sunny skies, but very cool south winds kept the temperatures only in the mid-teens.

 Here's a quick run down of the activities in the Queenstown area that could empty your wallet (and stomach) in no time...

Jet-Boating, Bungy-Jumping (in a myriad of formats), River (and land) Safaris, Gondola rides, Para-Gliding, Wheeled Luge, Fly by Wire, Downhill Biking, numerous versions of Heli-??? whatever, Canyon Swing, River Surfing, Bungee Rocket - and many options for bus (single and double-decker) tours to wineries, Fiordland, etc., etc. In the wintertime there are also all the snow related activities to keep a possibly bored person happy.

 Milford Sound (Fiordland) would have been a nice trip, but it would have been a very rushed long day (very early start with a late return) with doubtful weather and road conditions, so I elected to just take it easy and view all the local highlights. Obviously, I didn't partake in any of the thrill-seeking extreme ventures! I think Basil wants to be a jet boat driver though!

 No museum here, but the Queenstown gardens were a nice peaceful alternative to the hustle and bustle of the town with its quagmire of streets filled with gift stores, restaurants and booking offices for the many activities. There's so much commercialism here, that I feel visitors are not looking at the real attraction, which is the natural beauty of the area. Just to sit out at the lakefront, taking in the surroundings, breathing some clean air, watching the antics of the different birds and ducks (and people) was a real pleasure for me - Oh, I guess that the beer in my hand and frequent opportunities to fill my face helped to pass the time pleasantly! Lots of food choices too, made a change from the old pasta and rice thing!

 It was also interesting to sit and listen to all the different languages and accents, trying to figure out where everyone was from - there was certainly a good mix.

Para gliders... It was certainly fun watching the fearless jumping off a very high hill top, with nothing but some string and a silk sheet to prevent them becoming a large divot in the ground! And the only things to break the peace and quiet, were the jet boats roaring in every hour with their payload of cold and wet survivors! NZ$75.00 to get wet for an hour - I'm in the wrong business!

 But all in all, a very enjoyable rest day.

 

Some views from around Queenstown

Day 23 - Queenstown to Franz Josef Glacier
25km

 Of course, the big mileage today as on a shuttle bus to Fox Glacier; from there I rode the 25km. I figured that it wouldn't take long - I should know better! Three steep, long twisty-turny climbs followed each time by the same downhills through some wild hairpin bends. Anyhow, it was still nice to get off the bus and stretch my kneecaps out of shape! Very little views of the glaciers here, the clouds were covering the peaks, so I only caught a peek of one glacier, while I was busy rolling down a hill. The helicopters and buses are busy though, ferrying people back and forth up the mountain to step out onto the ice - just like in Canada!

 This morning the road, SH6 was only opened for one lane of traffic through the recent slide that I mentioned - luckily the bridge (under the slide) survived the onslaught of rock, or the road would have been closed for much longer.

 The only part of the bus trip that I wish I had ridden by bike, was the Haast Pass - very scenic, with an immensely long downhill to Haast beach on the west coast of the South Island - my first glimpse of the Tasman Sea too. But time is a restrictor, so I knew that I'd have to miss riding some of the sections of New Zealand. Today's bus trip would have been a good four day ride for me - weather permitting. But I don't really regret bussing north from Haast beach - very little of the coast is visible from the road, as the highway travels away from the actual oceanfront. Most of one's time is spent travelling through rainforest, with just some glimpses of the coast from minimal viewpoints. I hope that the ride to Greymouth over the next two days will provide some better vistas of the Tasman Sea.

 I'm staying at the YHA in Franz Josef and from here have booked some hostels ahead for some of the next few days - especially the two days in the mountains going east over Arthur's Pass and whatever other passes there are en route! Weather forecast is for changeable conditions - which can mean just about anything here!

Nice hostel here - just been renovated recently. Lots of other travellers here - checking in at the reception desk was a fellow who was from my home town in the UK, Leeds - small world!

 I wasn't sorry to leave Queenstown - the rest was nice, but clearly, Queenstown is brash commercialism at its very best!